Landing in Sofia and the Immediate Need for Banitsa
Stepping into Sofia, the first thing to do is grab a banitsa. This golden, flaky pastry stuffed with cheese is Bulgaria’s way of saying, “Welcome, now eat this and be happy.” Pair it with ayran, a salty yoghurt drink that sounds questionable but somehow works. It’s best enjoyed while strolling down Vitosha Boulevard, Sofia’s main pedestrian street lined with cafés, shops, and just enough pretentiousness to keep things interesting. If it’s a Saturday morning, you might even stumble upon an open-air book market or a street musician who’s convinced he’s the next big thing.
For a proper caffeine fix, step into one of Sofia’s third-wave coffee spots. The city takes its coffee seriously, and places like Fabrika Daga or Dabov Specialty Coffee serve up aromatic brews that could make you forget you ever drank instant coffee in your life.
The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral and a Lesson in Grandeur
The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is impossible to miss. This massive, gold-domed beauty is Sofia’s crown jewel and an excellent place to pretend you know something about architecture. Step inside and be enveloped by flickering candlelight, enormous chandeliers, and the faint scent of incense. If you’re feeling particularly pious, light a candle and make a wish. If not, just bask in the sheer grandeur and take the obligatory “look at me in front of a cathedral” photo.
The surrounding area is also worth a wander. Pop into the flea market nearby, where local vendors sell everything from antique icons to military medals, Soviet-era paraphernalia, and handcrafted jewellery. It’s the perfect place to pick up a peculiar souvenir, or at the very least, marvel at some truly bizarre knick-knacks.
Ruins Beneath Your Feet
Sofia is a city built on layers of history, quite literally. Underneath its modern streets lie the remains of ancient Serdica, once a thriving Roman settlement. Head to the Serdica Archaeological Complex, conveniently located in the middle of the city, and casually admire ancient ruins while dodging commuters rushing to the metro. There’s something uniquely surreal about standing on cobbled Roman roads while locals argue about Wi-Fi speeds.
While in the area, check out the tiny but charming Church of St. Petka, tucked between modern buildings like a historical secret. If you’re lucky, you might walk in on a quiet prayer session, adding to the old-world mystique.
A Hearty Bulgarian Feast
By now, hunger will strike, and it’s time to embrace Bulgarian cuisine in all its hearty, meat-heavy glory. Find a traditional mehana (tavern) and order shopska salad, a fresh mix of tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, and copious amounts of white cheese—essentially Bulgaria’s answer to “let’s pretend we’re eating healthy.” Follow it up with kavarma, a slow-cooked meat and vegetable stew served in a rustic clay pot. Wash it all down with rakia, Bulgaria’s potent fruit brandy that warms the soul and possibly melts internal organs.
If you still have room, try mekitsi—Bulgaria’s answer to doughnuts, served with jam or honey. Perfect for that moment when you think, “I couldn’t possibly eat more… oh wait, yes I can.”
Sunset at the National Palace of Culture
The National Palace of Culture, or NDK, is an imposing, Soviet-era building that looks like it was designed for supervillains. Its surrounding park, however, is the perfect place for a sunset stroll. Locals gather here for impromptu chess matches, rollerblading, and heated debates over football. Grab a drink at one of the open-air bars, soak in the atmosphere, and prepare for the night ahead.
If you’re in the mood for some culture, check out what’s playing at the Palace of Culture—it hosts everything from rock concerts to theatre performances and film festivals.
Bar Hopping and the Sofia Nightlife
Sofia’s nightlife is an experience. The city is packed with hidden bars, underground clubs, and places that look like someone’s living room but somehow serve world-class cocktails. Start at Raketa Rakia Bar for a selection of Bulgaria’s finest rakia, then move to Hambara, an unmarked candlelit bar that makes you feel like you’ve stumbled into a secret society. If you still have energy, end the night dancing at Terminal 1, where DJs spin everything from indie rock to Balkan beats.
For a more relaxed evening, check out One More Bar, a favourite among Sofia’s creative crowd, where you can sip on a well-crafted cocktail in a courtyard strung with fairy lights.
Morning Hike on Vitosha Mountain
Nothing cures a rakia-induced hangover like fresh mountain air. Just a short ride from the city centre, Vitosha Mountain offers trails for all levels of enthusiasm, from gentle strolls to full-blown “why did I agree to this?” hikes. The view from the top is worth it, with Sofia sprawled below and the occasional eagle soaring past for dramatic effect. If hiking isn’t your thing, a cup of herbal tea at one of the mountain huts works just as well.
In winter, Vitosha turns into a ski haven, and you’ll find locals swapping city shoes for snowboards and skis, proving that Sofia’s residents are nothing if not adaptable.
The Iconic Boyana Church
History buffs and lovers of hidden gems should make their way to the Boyana Church, a UNESCO-listed medieval wonder tucked away at the foot of Vitosha Mountain. The 13th-century frescoes inside are stunning, depicting expressive, human-like figures at a time when most art looked like it was drawn by someone afraid of facial expressions. The small, dimly lit interior adds to the mystique, making you feel like you’ve stepped into a lost world.
Pair your visit with a stop at the nearby Boyana Waterfall, an underrated gem offering a refreshing dose of nature.
Sofia: One Last Coffee Before Goodbye
Before heading off, make time for one last coffee at one of Sofia’s many speciality cafés. Fabrika Daga and Drekka serve some of the best brews in the city, proving that Bulgaria takes its coffee culture seriously. Sit back, watch the city go about its day, and reflect on how Sofia is the perfect mix of old and new, gritty and charming, chaotic and peaceful. And just maybe, start planning your next visit.
If you have a little extra time, a quick walk through Borisova Gradina, Sofia’s oldest park, is the perfect way to bid farewell to this effortlessly cool city.
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