48 hours in Berlin? That’s cute. The city barely wakes up in that time, but fine, let’s make the most of it. You won’t see it all, but you’ll definitely see enough to come back for more.
First things first, grab a coffee. Berlin runs on caffeine and existential dread, so fuel up at Five Elephant in Kreuzberg – their cheesecake alone could justify your entire trip. If you’re feeling particularly ambitious, detour to The Barn for a second cup, because sleep is optional in this city. Stroll towards the East Side Gallery, a glorious stretch of the Berlin Wall now covered in murals that range from the deeply political to the deeply confusing. Spot the famous “Fraternal Kiss” and try not to think about geopolitics too early in the morning.
Take your time walking along the Spree, watching boats chug by and Berliners attempting to rollerblade without catastrophe. Head to Museum Island, but don’t rush. The Pergamon Museum is an obvious choice, but if you want something moodier, the Alte Nationalgalerie offers art in a setting that makes you feel like you should be wearing a cravat. If museums aren’t your thing, just sit outside the Berlin Cathedral, look intellectual, and eat a pretzel.
Lunchtime. Head to Markthalle Neun in Kreuzberg if you’re feeling hipster. If it’s Thursday, Street Food Thursday will seduce you with everything from bao buns to tacos. Otherwise, grab a legendary döner kebab from Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap. Yes, the queue is long. No, you don’t care. If you want a sit-down option, head to Lokal in Mitte, where the dishes are seasonal, the décor minimalist, and the likelihood of overhearing a start-up pitch high.
A slow afternoon is in order. Head to Tempelhofer Feld, the abandoned airport turned public park where Berliners cycle down old runways, fly kites, or just lie on the grass contemplating existence. Join them. If the weather is terrible (likely), duck into a cosy café in Neukölln or Prenzlauer Berg. Try Silo Coffee or Bonanza for strong coffee and the kind of avocado toast that makes millennials question their financial choices. If you need some retail therapy, explore the indie boutiques in Hackescher Markt or browse the vintage shops in Friedrichshain.
Dinner demands currywurst. Go classic at Konnopke’s Imbiss or indulge at Curry 36. Still hungry? Swing by Katz Orange for something a little more refined – slow-cooked meats, Berlin cool, dim lighting, all the good stuff. If you’re after something wilder, check out one of the city’s legendary supper clubs, where dinner might involve sitting next to a conceptual artist, a DJ, or someone who just got back from living in a treehouse in Thailand.
Nighttime in Berlin is where things get complicated. You could sip cocktails at a speakeasy like Buck and Breck, where the entrance is so discreet you’ll think you’ve been scammed, or you could dive straight into the clubbing vortex. Berghain is an obvious pick, if you can get in. If not, there’s Sisyphos for outdoor dancing, Kater Blau for riverside beats, or if you’re feeling fancy, a rooftop bar like Klunkerkranich with panoramic views and excellent people-watching.
If, by some miracle, you’re up early, breakfast at House of Small Wonder is the move. Croissants, matcha lattes, a greenhouse aesthetic – it’s almost too pretty to eat. Almost. Then, onwards to the Reichstag. Book ahead to climb the glass dome, feel inspired by democracy, and get that skyline photo.
A walk through Tiergarten clears the head. Stand under the Brandenburg Gate and pretend you’re in every historical documentary ever made. Swing by the Holocaust Memorial – stark, overwhelming, and necessary. If you need a pick-me-up after, Café Einstein Stammhaus offers the kind of old-school charm that makes you feel like you should be writing a novel. If you’ve got extra time, pop over to Charlottenburg Palace, where you can wander the gardens and pretend you’re in a period drama.
Lunch at Mogg is essential. Pastrami sandwiches bigger than your face, housed in an old Jewish girls’ school – history and indulgence combined. Walk it off in Hackescher Markt, dipping into independent boutiques and resisting the urge to buy something impractical. If you need one last museum, the DDR Museum offers an interactive (read: fun) dive into East German life, complete with a simulated Stasi interrogation. Or, if you’d rather be outside, take a boat tour along the Spree, where guides will tell you all sorts of questionable facts about Berlin’s history.
As departure looms, say goodbye with one last drink. Clärchens Ballhaus is perfect – a slightly chaotic, beautifully old-school dance hall where you can toast to a weekend well spent, possibly while attempting a tango with an enthusiastic stranger. If you need something quieter, ORA in Kreuzberg is a former apothecary-turned-bar that serves excellent cocktails and just the right amount of nostalgia.
Berlin doesn’t do neat itineraries. It’s messy, complicated, unpredictable – but that’s half the fun. You’ll be back, and next time, you’ll probably stay longer.
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