48 hours in Cagliari feels like stepping into a sun-drenched film set, where history, sea breeze, and pasta play their roles to perfection. The city hums with Mediterranean charm, from its golden-hued old town to its endless sea views, best enjoyed with a glass of Vermentino in hand. Two days might not be enough to truly master the art of Sardinian slow living—but it’s certainly enough time to try.
Start the morning at Caffè Tramer for a proper Italian espresso and a fluffy, cream-filled pardula. No one rushes here, so sip like a local, lean on the counter, and pretend you’re plotting a screenplay. Then, it’s time to head uphill to Castello, the old town perched on the city’s limestone backbone. Wander through its tangled alleys, where faded aristocratic palaces and pastel houses cling to the cliffs like stubborn barnacles. Stop at Bastione di Saint Remy, not just for the panoramic view but also to dramatically remove your sunglasses and sigh at the Mediterranean stretching endlessly below. Linger a little longer than necessary, because nobody does dramatic pauses like the Italians.
Walk towards Cattedrale di Santa Maria, an architectural patchwork that wears its history with pride. It’s seen Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque makeovers, much like an ageing diva refusing to settle on a single aesthetic. Inside, the crypt whispers stories of Pisan nobles and medieval saints—because every good trip should include a brush with the mysterious. Take a moment to absorb the eerie beauty before heading out to soak in the sunlight once again.
The next stop is Torre dell’Elefante, because any city that incorporates elephants into its defensive strategy deserves respect. Climb up for more city views and an appreciation of Cagliari’s medieval charm. From here, it’s a gentle descent to Via Manno and Via Garibaldi, where boutique browsing is a sport and handmade sandals could easily become a necessary souvenir. Keep an eye out for artisan jewellery, intricate ceramics, and linen dresses that somehow make you feel like you belong here.
Lunchtime calls for Antica Cagliari in the Marina district. Order fregola con arselle, a Sardinian take on couscous with clams, and pretend you’re considering moving here permanently. It’s inevitable. Pair it with a crisp Vermentino wine and let the meal stretch as long as it needs to—Sardinians don’t believe in rushed lunches.
The afternoon belongs to Poetto Beach. The city’s 8-kilometre stretch of soft sand is the perfect place to let time slip away. Rent a sunbed, watch windsurfers zigzag across the waves, or just listen to the gentle mutter of Sardinians discussing anything from football to fishing. If you’re feeling active, rent a bike and cruise along the waterfront, stopping for a gelato at one of the beachfront kiosks.
Evening demands an aperitivo, and Libarium Nostrum is the spot. A spritz in hand, the city glowing below—it’s dangerously easy to get used to this. When hunger returns, S’Apposentu in San Benedetto delivers a more refined Sardinian feast, where culurgiones (plump ravioli filled with minty potato magic) steal the show. If you still have room, indulge in seadas, the local honey-drizzled pastry that somehow tastes like both comfort and indulgence.
The next morning begins with a slow walk through Mercato di San Benedetto. This is where Cagliari’s heart beats—fishmongers theatrically filleting the freshest catch, elderly locals inspecting Pecorino with an almost religious devotion, the air thick with the scent of herbs and the chatter of bargaining. A picnic haul is essential: pane carasau, salami, olives, and some form of cheese-related indulgence. Pick up a bottle of Cannonau wine—allegedly the secret to Sardinian longevity—and find a quiet spot to enjoy it later.
Fuelled and ready, head towards the Roman Amphitheatre, a reminder that Cagliari was already prime real estate in antiquity. Imagine gladiators battling it out while the audience tossed insults and probably bits of bread. Continue to the Botanical Garden, a surprisingly lush retreat where centuries-old ficus trees and hidden grottoes provide a moment of shade and silence. Keep an eye out for the resident tortoises—slow-moving, contemplative, and clearly well-versed in the Sardinian way of life.
Lunch at Sa Domu Sarda is a non-negotiable. Their slow-roasted suckling pig, crispy and tender in all the right places, is a love letter to Sardinian culinary tradition. A post-lunch espresso fuels the walk up to Monte Urpinu Park, where the flamingos laze in the salt flats, and the view stretches from the hills to the sea. If you’re lucky, you might even spot a few wild boars skulking in the greenery—harmless, but with a definite air of mischief.
For a grand finale, sunset at Sella del Diavolo. The short hike up is worth the golden-hour spectacle. The city, the lagoon, the endless blue—it all fits together perfectly, like a well-plotted novel where every scene earns its place. Sit for a while, let the wind ruffle your hair, and soak in the moment before heading back down.
Leaving Cagliari isn’t easy. The warm air, the lingering taste of salt and pecorino, the echoes of waves and clinking glasses—they’ll follow you home, nudging you with one simple thought: when’s the next trip? And just like that, you’re already planning your return.
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