48 hours in Dubrovnik is a masterclass in jaw-dropping scenery—every twist and turn revealing medieval walls, red-tiled rooftops, and the Adriatic shimmering like it’s been personally polished for your arrival. It’s all so outrageously cinematic, you half expect a film crew to appear. But there’s no time for pinching yourself—there are hidden alleyways to wander, seafood feasts to devour, and sunset views so perfect they almost feel scripted.
Start with a caffeine hit at Cogito Coffee. Small, cool, and full of people who look like they’re writing screenplays, it does a mean flat white. Take it to go and march straight up to the City Walls before the heat and cruise ship hordes become unbearable. Walk the full circuit, taking in the views of the Old Town and the sea so blue it looks like a postcard someone has over-edited. If you’re into Game of Thrones, congratulations, you’re basically inside a filming location. If you’re not, just enjoy the smugness of being awake before most tourists. Take your time here, find a shady spot along the ramparts, and just sit for a while, watching the terracotta rooftops bake under the Mediterranean sun.
By the time you descend, you’ve earned breakfast. Gradska Kavana Arsenal is a safe bet, with a terrace that delivers prime people-watching over the old harbour. Order something eggy, stare at the boats, and pretend you’re about to set sail on a private yacht. If you want something quieter, walk further into the town and grab a table at Pupica for a more relaxed start to the day, with homemade pastries and a strong, syrupy coffee that will wake you up instantly.
The afternoon is for getting lost in the Old Town. Stradun is the main street, all smooth limestone and elegant arches, but the real charm is in the alleys snaking off in every direction. Pop into the Franciscan Monastery to see the Old Pharmacy, still operating since 1317 because Croatians apparently don’t believe in renovations. For something quirkier, hit the War Photo Limited exhibition – a sobering but gripping collection of images from conflicts worldwide, including the Yugoslav Wars. If that gets too heavy, duck into Gundulic Square and explore the little artisan shops where you can pick up locally made lavender products, olive oils, and rakija to take home.
As the heat peaks, do what the locals do: flee to the water. Banje Beach is the most convenient, though it gets packed. Better yet, grab a kayak and paddle over to Lokrum Island, where you can swim in the Dead Sea (not the actual one, just a salty little lagoon) and visit an abandoned monastery now inhabited mostly by peacocks. The island also has some of the best spots for cliff jumping, if you’re feeling particularly brave. If you prefer a more relaxed swim, take a local boat to Šunj Beach on Lopud Island, where the water is shallow, warm, and backed by little beach bars that serve dangerously good mojitos.
As the sun dips, find your way to Buza Bar. This place is legendary, mostly because it’s a bar perched on the rocks outside the city walls with nothing but the sea in front of it. Drinks are overpriced, but you’re not here for the bargain – you’re here to sip a cold beer while the sky turns ridiculous shades of pink and orange. If you’re lucky, you’ll find a spot right at the edge, where you can dangle your feet over the cliffs and pretend you never have to leave.
Dinner at Kopun is a solid move. It specialises in traditional Croatian dishes, and the signature capon (castrated rooster, if you must know) stew is worth a try. Sit on the terrace and let the history of the Jesuit Staircase sink in – yes, another Game of Thrones filming spot, but also just a ridiculously beautiful part of the city. If you’re in the mood for seafood, make your way to Orsan, a tucked-away restaurant in a quiet marina where the grilled fish is always fresh and the setting feels wonderfully removed from the bustle of the Old Town.
Start the next morning with a quick breakfast at Kawa, where the pastries are small, delicate, and far too easy to eat by the dozen. Then, if you’re feeling energetic, hop on the cable car up to Mount Srd. The views are outrageous, and if you’re up for some history, the Homeland War Museum inside the old fort is genuinely fascinating. Alternatively, just take a smug selfie and ride back down. If you’re up for an adventure, skip the cable car and hike up instead. The trail winds its way up the hillside, and while it’s a bit of a workout, the panoramic views make it worth the sweat.
A boat trip is non-negotiable. The Elaphiti Islands are your best bet – hop on a tour that includes Šipan, Lopud, and Kolocep, where you’ll find quiet coves, sleepy villages, and seafood that tastes like it was fished out of the water ten minutes ago. Expect a long lunch in a tiny restaurant where the wine flows freely and no one is in a hurry. If you’re up for some extra indulgence, book a private boat and set your own itinerary, stopping to swim in hidden caves and deserted beaches along the way.
Back in town, squeeze in a final wander. Maybe a last-minute visit to Rector’s Palace, maybe just an aimless stroll, pretending you live here and aren’t about to drag your suitcase over cobblestones. If you’re desperate for one last sea view, head to Bard Mala Buza, a lesser-known sibling to the famous Buza Bar. It’s smaller, quieter, and still has that perfect clifftop perch. Or, if you’re feeling indulgent, slip into the five-star Hotel Excelsior for a cocktail on their waterfront terrace, watching the city lights flicker against the darkening sky.
Dubrovnik is one of those places that tricks you into thinking life could be this easy all the time. Just sun, sea, stone streets, and the occasional peacock. You’ll be back.
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