Stepping off the train at Lille Europe, the first thing that strikes you is how a city can be both distinctly French and yet, somehow, not. It has a Flemish streak running through its cobbled veins, a perfect blend of grandeur and quirk. The second thing that strikes you is the overwhelming need for a pastry. Find a boulangerie immediately and order a pain au chocolat. The calories don’t count when you’re on holiday.
Once sufficiently fuelled, take a leisurely stroll towards the Grand Place. This is Lille showing off—flanked by beautiful old buildings, the impressive Vieille Bourse, and a smattering of cafés just waiting for you to sit down and start people-watching. You’ll tell yourself it’s just for a quick coffee, but before you know it, you’ve ordered a tarte au sucre, and you’re contemplating staying in Lille forever. If you time it right, the square will be buzzing with street performers, adding a theatrical flourish to your indulgent break.
A Stroll Through Old Lille and the Art of Getting Lost
The charm of Vieux Lille lies in its winding streets, each more photogenic than the last. Walk aimlessly. Admire the pastel-coloured facades. Pop into boutique shops that sell everything from vintage postcards to artisanal chocolates. Resist buying all of them, or don’t. This is your trip. Take a detour into one of the many hidden courtyards, where ivy-covered walls whisper stories of centuries past.
Eventually, you’ll stumble upon the Cathédrale Notre-Dame de la Treille, an architectural oddity with a modern façade that looks suspiciously like it was added last-minute. Inside, though, it’s serene, cool, and the perfect place to pause before heading back out into the sensory overload of the city. Nearby, you’ll find small art galleries that feel more like hidden gems than tourist traps, offering contemporary takes on Flemish art.
The Art Fix at Palais des Beaux-Arts
A city break without a dose of high culture? Not happening. The Palais des Beaux-Arts is the second-largest fine arts museum in France (yes, really), which means you have no excuse not to pop in. Expect a treasure trove of Rubens, Goya, and even a few Monet paintings casually thrown in, as if it’s no big deal.
Even if you’re not a big art buff, the building itself is stunning, and the sheer variety of works means you’ll find something to gawp at. Plus, you can pretend to be deeply intellectual when discussing your favourite Flemish masterpiece over dinner later. Don’t forget to check out the museum’s basement, where a collection of 18th-century relief maps offers a fascinating glimpse into Lille’s fortified past.
Lunch Like a Local with a Carbonnade Flamande
You’ve walked enough. You’ve admired art. Now, you eat. Lille has no shortage of restaurants serving up hearty, Flemish-inspired dishes, and it would be a crime not to indulge in carbonnade flamande—a slow-cooked beef stew made with beer. Pair it with a crisp local brew, and bask in the smug satisfaction of having chosen the perfect meal.
If you’re still peckish, get some frites on the side. They’re French fries, but better, because they come with a sense of northern pride and possibly a little extra butter. For dessert, consider a speculoos-flavoured crème brûlée—because in Lille, resisting sweet treats is futile.
A Post-Lunch Wander Through Wazemmes Market
Wazemmes Market is loud, chaotic, and exactly where you want to be on a lazy afternoon. It’s a sensory overload in the best way possible—stalls piled high with cheese, fresh seafood, spices, and enough fresh bread to build a small house.
Join the locals in debating the best camembert, sample something that looks vaguely unidentifiable but smells amazing, and grab a handful of fresh strawberries. It’s an experience, a spectacle, and quite possibly, an impromptu second lunch. If you’re lucky, you might stumble across a live band playing between stalls, turning the market into an impromptu street festival.
Lille: Sunset Drinks With a View
Lille may not be Paris, but it certainly knows how to do rooftop bars. Make your way to Le Toit du Moulin, an old windmill turned stylish rooftop spot, where cocktails flow freely, and the sunset turns the city golden. Order something strong, sit back, and toast to your impeccable travel choices.
If you prefer your drinks at ground level, there are plenty of atmospheric bars in Vieux Lille, where the beer menus are longer than your arm. Belgian influence runs deep here, and you won’t go wrong with anything dark and malty. For something truly local, try a bière de garde, a farmhouse ale brewed in the region.
A Morning Amongst the Books at Vieille Bourse
Rise and shine—it’s time to browse for books in one of Lille’s most beautiful corners. The Vieille Bourse, an elegant Renaissance building surrounding a courtyard, transforms into a second-hand book market in the mornings. You might not understand half the books, but that doesn’t matter. The atmosphere is pure magic.
Amongst the stacks, you’ll also find posters, old photographs, and the occasional chess game in progress. Challenge a local if you’re feeling brave, or just linger and soak in the literary charm. If the sun is out, grab a seat in the courtyard and enjoy an impromptu poetry reading—whether you understand French or not.
Lille: The Citadel and a Breath of Fresh Air
Lille’s Vauban-designed citadel is an architectural marvel, but let’s be honest—you’re here for the park. Bois de Boulogne surrounds the fortress, offering a perfect escape from the city’s bustle. Rent a bike, go for a stroll, or just find a spot under a tree and do absolutely nothing. You’ve earned it.
For those with an interest in military history, the citadel itself is still an active base, so access is limited. But even from the outside, it’s an impressive feat of engineering, proving once again that the French knew how to build a good fort. Pack a picnic if you’re feeling extra leisurely—some good cheese, a baguette, and a bottle of wine make for the perfect afternoon spread.
One Last Feast Before You Leave Lille
Before you head back to reality, there’s just enough time for one last indulgence. Head to Meert, the grand dame of Lille’s culinary scene, where the waffles are legendary. These aren’t your standard waffles—they’re delicate, filled with rich vanilla cream, and worth every single calorie.
Pair it with an espresso, sit back in the historic tea room, and reflect on the fact that you have, in just 48 hours, eaten and explored your way through one of France’s most underrated cities. And, if you’re lucky, there’s still a bit of room in your bag for some extra pastries to take home. Just remember: your diet starts tomorrow.
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