48 hours in Lisbon in Lisbon means stepping into a city where pastel-coloured buildings cling to hills like they have no idea how gravity works, trams screech around impossibly tight corners, and the air is thick with the smell of grilled sardines and slightly burnt custard tarts. Two days isn’t enough, but it’ll have to do. Brace yourself for a whirlwind of food, miradouros, and enough caffeine to power a small European country.
First, caffeine. Find a local café and order a bica, which is Lisbon’s way of saying espresso. Pair it with a pastel de nata, because resisting that flaky, creamy perfection is futile. You may think one is enough, but who are we kidding? Stroll towards Alfama, the city’s oldest district, where laundry flaps theatrically above steep, cobbled streets and fado music leaks from tiny bars. The climb up to the Castelo de São Jorge is mildly punishing but rewards you with smug-worthy views of the city’s red rooftops tumbling down to the Tagus River. Take your time up there, snap far too many photos, and contemplate the strategic brilliance of medieval Portuguese fortifications.
Rambling downhill, make a beeline for Baixa and stop for lunch at one of the traditional tasca joints. Think grilled fish, mountains of rice, and wine that costs less than a coffee. If you fancy something even more indulgent, head to Cervejaria Ramiro for some of the best seafood in the city. The garlic prawns alone might make you rethink your return flight. Wander towards the river and follow the breeze to Cais do Sodré, once seedy, now trendy. The Time Out Market is a reliable way to sample everything from octopus salad to the famous prego steak sandwich without committing to a full meal.
Tram 28 awaits, rattling through the city’s most photogenic streets. Squeeze in, hold on, and pretend to be nonchalant as it careers past miraculously parked cars and pedestrians with a death wish. Hop off at Chiado for bookshops, elegant squares, and the slightly terrifying sight of people actually enjoying a shot of ginjinha, Lisbon’s beloved cherry liqueur. If you’re feeling adventurous, get a bottle to go and sip it in a scenic spot—preferably somewhere with a view so you can tell yourself this is culture, not just day drinking.
As the sun slumps behind the Ponte 25 de Abril, head up to a miradouro, one of Lisbon’s smugly scenic viewpoints. Miradouro de Santa Catarina or Senhora do Monte will do nicely. Grab a drink, watch the sky do its thing, and let the city work its quiet magic. If hunger strikes, seek out a cosy taberna serving petiscos—Portugal’s answer to tapas. Think chorizo, salted cod fritters, and plenty of cheese.
Morning demands another pastel de nata. If you want the best, trek out to Belém and join the queue at Pastéis de Belém. It’s worth the wait. While you’re there, admire the Monastery of Jerónimos, which looks like someone told a sculptor to go absolutely wild with limestone. The nearby Belém Tower is also a must, though it mostly serves as a backdrop for countless tourist selfies. Stretch your legs along the waterfront, where you might stumble upon street musicians, joggers, and the occasional group of elderly men arguing passionately about football.
Jump on a bike or a tram and make your way to LX Factory, a former industrial complex turned hipster paradise. Street art, quirky boutiques, and coffee that doesn’t taste like jet fuel make it a solid pit stop. Lunch? Go for a bifana, a deceptively simple pork sandwich that somehow tastes like the height of culinary genius when drenched in mustard and washed down with a cold beer. If you’re craving something sweet, there’s always room for another custard tart. There’s always room.
One last neighbourhood deserves attention before the clock runs out: PrÃncipe Real. Leafy, effortlessly cool, and packed with independent shops that will make you consider relocating. Pop into Embaixada, a shopping gallery housed in a 19th-century palace, and pretend you can afford everything. It’s also home to some of the city’s best bars, so there’s only one way to say goodbye to Lisbon – with a slow, lingering drink in a place that feels like you’ve stumbled into someone’s stylish living room.
If there’s time for a final bite, get yourself to Taberna da Rua das Flores. No reservations, no nonsense, just phenomenal Portuguese food. If there isn’t time, well, that’s just another reason to come back.
Time’s up, but Lisbon lingers. The sound of fado, the taste of custard tarts, the last sip of vinho verde as you gaze out at the Tagus. It gets under your skin. You’ll be back. Probably sooner than you think.
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