48 hours in Prague is like stepping into a fairy tale, but one where the beer is cheaper than water and the cobblestones are out to get you. Two days might not be enough to unlock all its secrets, but it’s enough to fall in love and develop a mild addiction to trdelník (which, spoiler alert, isn’t even Czech, but hey, it’s delicious, so who cares?). The air smells like chimney smoke and freshly baked pastries, and if that doesn’t make you believe in magic, nothing will.
Morning starts in the Old Town Square, where the Astronomical Clock puts on its slightly underwhelming show every hour. Tourists gather, expecting fireworks, only to watch some wooden apostles pop out for a brief, existential moment before disappearing again. While everyone else is mesmerised, nip into a nearby café for a proper Czech breakfast: scrambled eggs with chives, some hearty bread, and a dangerously strong coffee. For the brave, a morning shot of Becherovka might be in order—purely for digestive purposes, of course.
Wander through the Jewish Quarter, where centuries of history are layered in winding streets and ornate synagogues. The Old Jewish Cemetery is a hauntingly beautiful tangle of gravestones stacked upon each other, a silent witness to history. It’s a good place to reflect—before heading to the Charles Bridge to be jostled by selfie sticks and a man playing “My Heart Will Go On” on a saxophone. If you’re lucky, you might stumble upon a street musician who isn’t playing the Titanic theme song, but don’t get your hopes up.
By midday, it’s time to reward yourself with some Czech comfort food. Lokál is the place to be for svíčková—beef in a creamy sauce with dumplings that act like edible sponges, soaking up every last drop. Pair it with a Pilsner because, when in Prague, hydration is key. If you still have space (and you should), finish with a slice of medovník, a layered honey cake that will haunt your dreams in the best way.
Cross the river into Malá Strana, where the pastel buildings look too pretty to be real. Climb up to Prague Castle, taking the scenic route through the quiet back streets to avoid the crowds. St. Vitus Cathedral looms inside the castle complex, a Gothic masterpiece that looks like it might just house a vampire or two. From up here, the views stretch across the whole city—best enjoyed while catching your breath and pretending the stairs weren’t that bad. If you’re in the mood for a bit more history, the Golden Lane, with its tiny, colourful houses, is worth a peek—just be prepared to fight off a horde of tourists with the same idea.
Evening means cocktails with a view. Head to Letná Park, grab a beer from the beer garden, and watch the city lights flicker on from the best seat in town. If dinner needs a bit more theatre, book a table at Café Imperial, where the Art Nouveau tiles and impeccable service make you feel like you should be wearing gloves and speaking in a hushed, mysterious tone. Alternatively, pop into a local hospoda (pub) for some bramboráky—crispy potato pancakes best enjoyed with a side of garlic breath.
Day two kicks off with a tram ride up to Vyšehrad, Prague’s less touristy castle, where the crowds disappear, and the city feels like it belongs to you. Walk along the old fortress walls, visit the cemetery where famous Czech figures are buried, and breathe in the peace before heading back into the fray. If you’re lucky, you might stumble upon a random open-air concert or an old man with a harmonica playing melancholic Czech tunes.
Lunch means hunting down chlebíčky, the open-faced sandwiches that are basically edible art. Each little masterpiece is stacked with creamy spreads, meats, pickles, and a dash of elegance that you never knew a sandwich could have. Pair it with a kofola—the Communist-era soda that tastes like flat, herbal Coke but in a weirdly good way. It’s an acquired taste, but you’re here for the full experience.
Spend the afternoon in Žižkov, the rebellious, slightly scruffy neighbourhood that has the most pubs per capita in Europe. Climb the Žižkov Television Tower, a brutalist oddity with giant crawling babies stuck to its sides (yes, really), for a panoramic view that’s worth the trek. If the tower isn’t your thing, just park yourself in one of the many pubs and order another beer. You’ve earned it. While here, keep an eye out for local street art, because this area wears its attitude like a badge of honour.
Dinner is all about going local. U Kroka is the place to try something hearty like roast duck with red cabbage, because nothing says “I’ve embraced Czech culture” like an unholy amount of meat and carbs. If you’re feeling extra adventurous, throw in a side of tvarůžky, pungent Czech cheese that smells like regret but tastes like a challenge worth accepting. Afterwards, if there’s any energy left, a final wander through the quiet streets of the Old Town, where Prague feels like a dream you don’t want to wake up from. Maybe stop for a nightcap, maybe get lost in the winding streets—both are equally good options.
Before leaving, there’s just enough time for one last trdelník. It’s a tourist trap, but so is Prague, in the best possible way. Besides, after two days of eating like royalty, what’s one more pastry? One last look at the city skyline, one last sip of beer, and one last moment of wondering if you should just move here. Spoiler: you probably should.
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