Stepping into Belgrade, you’ll quickly realise this city doesn’t do half measures. It’s bold, brash, and fuelled by strong coffee and even stronger rakija. First things first: get your hands on a shot of Serbia’s infamous fruit brandy. Don’t question it. It’s a rite of passage, and the locals will respect you more for it. Just sip, don’t shoot—unless you want to make friends fast.
Once sufficiently baptised into Belgrade’s ways, take a slow stroll down Knez Mihailova, the city’s pedestrianised artery. Grand Austro-Hungarian buildings line the street, leading you straight into Kalemegdan Park, where history and unbeatable views collide. If you have time, grab another coffee at one of the park’s open-air cafés, where chess-playing pensioners size each other up in tense, silent battles.
Belgrade Fortress and a Crash Course in Serbian History
Kalemegdan Fortress is Belgrade’s crown jewel, perched high above the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers. It has seen empires rise and fall, and if the walls could talk, they’d probably be exhausted. Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans, Habsburgs—everyone wanted a piece of Belgrade, and this is where they fought for it.
Walk through the massive stone gates, stumble upon hidden staircases, and pretend you’re a medieval warrior surveying the land. The view over the rivers is spectacular, especially at sunset. Grab a drink from a nearby café, find a spot on the walls, and watch the sky turn pink over the water. You’ll understand why people keep fighting over this place. If you’re feeling extra curious, visit the military museum inside the fortress, where tanks, cannons, and medieval weapons paint a picture of just how often Belgrade had to defend itself.
A Meaty Affair at a Kafana
Serbians take food seriously, and if you’re not leaving a meal mildly concerned for your arteries, you’re doing it wrong. Head to a traditional kafana—a no-frills tavern where waiters call you “brother” and plates are piled high with grilled meats.
Ćevapi is the move: little grilled minced meat sausages served with raw onions, fresh bread, and a side of kajmak (a dangerously addictive dairy spread that defies categorisation). Wash it down with another shot of rakija, because at this point, you’ve earned it. If you’re still peckish, try Karađorđe’s schnitzel—Serbia’s version of cordon bleu but bigger, better, and, naturally, fried.
The Floating Nightlife of Belgrade
Belgrade is famous for its nightlife, and if you’re looking for the best party spots, you won’t find them on land. Splavovi—floating bars and clubs—line the banks of the rivers, offering everything from techno temples to laid-back jazz joints.
Pick your poison: splav 20/44 for house beats, Jazz Basta for a more refined experience, or Freestyler if you want to dance until the sun comes up. Just know that in Belgrade, the party doesn’t start before midnight. Pace yourself. And if you’re still standing at 5 am, head to one of the city’s legendary late-night bakeries for a post-party pastry.
A Morning Fix of Burek and Yogurt
After a late night, you’ll need sustenance, and nothing hits quite like a greasy, flaky, cheese-filled burek. Every bakery in Belgrade serves it, but ask a local for their favourite spot and be prepared for an impassioned debate.
Pair it with a bottle of drinkable yogurt (yes, really), take a seat on a random park bench, and just exist. It’s the closest thing Serbia has to a national breakfast, and it tastes even better if eaten with mild regret from the night before. If you need a second wind, pop into a kafana for a shot of kafa turska (Serbian-style Turkish coffee), thick enough to wake the dead.
Belgrade: The Hidden Charms of Zemun
A short bus or boat ride from the city centre, Zemun feels like a different world. Once part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, it has a more laid-back, almost Mediterranean vibe. Stroll along the Danube promenade, pop into tiny riverside cafés, and soak in the small-town atmosphere.
Climb up Gardoš Tower for panoramic views over the river, then reward yourself with some fresh fish at one of the many floating restaurants. It’s the kind of place where time slows down, and you’ll briefly consider never leaving. If you’re lucky, you’ll stumble upon a live music performance in the square, where locals gather for impromptu dancing under the stars.
Coffee and Culture in Dorćol
Dorćol is where Belgrade’s cool kids hang out. It’s a mix of old and new, with crumbling 19th-century buildings standing next to hip cafés, galleries, and vintage shops. It’s also where you’ll find the city’s best coffee, so settle in for a strong Serbian espresso and some top-tier people-watching.
If you’re into history, the Museum of Yugoslavia is worth a stop. It’s home to the mausoleum of Josip Broz Tito, the charismatic leader who kept Yugoslavia glued together for decades. Even if you don’t care about Cold War politics, the sheer scale of Tito’s cult of personality is fascinating. For a quirkier cultural experience, check out the Nikola Tesla Museum, where you can witness live demonstrations of the Serbian scientist’s electrifying inventions.
Sunset at Ada Ciganlija
Known as “Belgrade’s Sea,” Ada Ciganlija is a river island turned city beach where locals escape the summer heat. It’s got everything—beach bars, bike trails, and even bungee jumping if you’re feeling brave (or reckless).
Grab a cold beer, stretch out on a sunbed, and enjoy a different side of Belgrade. It’s a reminder that this city, chaotic as it may be, knows how to unwind when it wants to. If you’re feeling active, rent a kayak or take a dip in the lake, because you’ll need to work off the sheer amount of food you’ve consumed.
One Last Feast Before You Go
Your time in Belgrade wouldn’t be complete without one last massive meal. Find a restaurant serving sarma (cabbage rolls stuffed with minced meat and rice) or Karađorđe’s schnitzel (a deep-fried, cheese-filled meat roll that is exactly as ridiculous as it sounds).
Sit back, eat too much, and reflect on the fact that Belgrade is impossible to define. It’s rough around the edges but bursting with charm, relentlessly energetic yet deeply relaxed, and above all, utterly unpretentious. One thing’s for sure—you’ll be back.
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