48 hours in Gaziantep… Landing in Gaziantep, you immediately realise two things: this city is serious about food, and your diet is about to be cancelled. First stop? Tahmis Kahvesi, a centuries-old café where men have been slamming back cups of Menengiç coffee (made from wild pistachios) since the Ottoman Empire. You’ll need the caffeine for what’s coming next: Zeugma Mosaic Museum. Home to some of the world’s most stunning Roman mosaics, including the haunting Gypsy Girl, it’s an art overload with just the right amount of ancient drama. Take your time here, because you’ll want to soak in every detail—the shifting expressions, the intricate tesserae, and the sheer grandeur of what once adorned the villas of the wealthy in ancient Zeugma.
Stepping outside, it’s time to surrender to the smells wafting through the air. Head straight to Imam Cagdas, the temple of kebabs and baklava. The Ali Nazik kebab – smoky aubergine puree under tender lamb – is non-negotiable, and the pistachio baklava? Forget Paris, this is the real deal. Post-feast, walk it off through the old city, weaving between copper workshops in Bakırcılar Çarşısı, where artisans hammer away, shaping everything from delicate tea sets to massive cauldrons. Pop into Almacı Bazaar for a sensory overload—piles of dried peppers, sacks of fragrant spices, and enough pistachios to feed a small army. Duck into the Naib Turkish Bath, even if just to admire its 17th-century elegance and fantasise about an era when life was a bit slower, steamier, and far more indulgent.
As the sun dips, find yourself in Gümrük Han. With a glass of fragrant tea in hand, observe the grandpas discussing world affairs (or perhaps, the price of pistachios) under vaulted ceilings. It’s the kind of place where time slows down, and you half expect a storyteller to emerge, spinning a tale of lost empires and trade caravans. Dinner? Metanet Lokantası, because it’s time to meet beyran soup – a garlicky, lamb-infused, spicy broth that wakes you up, knocks you out, and possibly resets your soul. Order extra bread to mop up every last drop.
Day two and you’re ready to get serious. Breakfast at Orkide Pastanesi, where katmer – a paper-thin pastry stuffed with clotted cream and crushed pistachios – is more of a life experience than a meal. If you need something savoury to balance it, grab a börek from a street vendor—flaky, buttery layers with a gooey cheese filling. Properly sugared up, head to Gaziantep Castle. The fortress looms over the city, whispering centuries of battles and victories, but let’s be honest, the best part is the panoramic view. The entire city spreads out beneath you, from the minarets piercing the skyline to the bustling markets below.
Midday means one thing: more food. Coppersmiths and spice sellers can wait – you’re on a mission to Halil Usta for a plate of perfectly charred lamb skewers. Take your time, soak in the simplicity of meat, salt, and fire done right. If there’s space left (unlikely, but let’s pretend), wander through the spice bazaar, letting the scent of sumac and isot pepper guide you. Make a pit stop at Zeki İnal Baklava for another hit of Gaziantep’s legendary sweets. If you’re feeling extra ambitious, grab a künefe—hot, syrup-soaked, and cheesy in the best way.
By late afternoon, visit the Emine Göğüş Culinary Museum, where Gaziantep’s food obsession is enshrined in history. Learn about dishes you’ve eaten, the ones you’ve missed, and make a mental note to return. Wander past the Kurtuluş Mosque, formerly a church, with its grand structure telling the story of the city’s layered past. If you have any energy left, the Panorama Museum offers a gripping account of Gaziantep’s role in the Turkish War of Independence—history with a side of drama.
For your final evening, a slow dinner at Kebapçı Halil Usta or Yesemek Restaurant, where the kebabs come with a side of history and the mezes keep arriving until you beg for mercy. If you want to go out with a bang, track down a traditional Gaziantep house-turned-restaurant like Hisvahan, where Ottoman elegance meets impeccable flavours.
Wrap up the trip with one last stroll through the alleys, where the city hums softly under golden lights. Maybe grab one last pistachio-stuffed delicacy for the road—because you know you’ll miss it the moment you leave. Pistachio-laden, history-drenched, and thoroughly full, you’ve survived 48 hours in Gaziantep. Barely.
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